Glacier National Park

We pulled into Glacier National Park from the western side and entered directly into the Disney World of Hell and Wax Museum. Shops, boutiques, food galleries...the Wal-mart of the National Park Service. We found our way to one of the most out of the way campgrounds, Bowman Lake, which is accessible only by 30 miles of washed-out washboard dirt road, expecting to have the grizzlies to ourselves. What a surprise when we found ourselves accompanied on the trek by obese and limping mini-vans, and ubiquitous Buick sedans. Talk about ego deflation. Here we are in Biesel, our off-road tank of love, feeling the power of her big Cummins engine and the grip of her 35 inch tires, only to be surrounded by a certain segment of the population with their expected vehicles, dogs, cigarettes, and loud new-country music.

To counterbalance this suburban strip-mall experience we were continually enchanted by a family of deer who seemed to think that we were part of their scenery and entertainment. They strolled right through our campsite and nested down mere feet from us and never gave a start. Please keep in mind that we have a bit of a love/hate relationship with deer. At home in Maine they love us and we hate them. You see, the deer seem to crave all of the best that we have growing in our yard: apple trees, pear trees, beets, greens, onions, blueberries. Pacifist vegetarian mushballs that we are, we can't help but hope a group of hunters will have a really good year in our neighborhood this fall.

After one night hiding out in Bowman we decided to make our way East and take in the views of the Going to the Sun Road. It was truly magnificent winding through the park and seeing the glaciers and waterfalls and incredible vistas. Only the feeling of being a lemming or a camel in a single file caravan moving in slo-mo controlled by traffic lights and flag-bearers tainted the experience. We left the park and made our way to the South-Eastern corner and Two Medicine Campground.

Finally a genuine camping pleasure. Two Medicine was near capacity but seemed to be occupied by people that had as similar a take on the universe as we do.

The views were stunning and the lake clear as a contact lens. We hiked up to Scenic Point, about 7 miles round trip, to one of the most breathtaking sights. The girls were super troopers and only whined on the uphill (read: the entire first half of the hike). Sara caught her second wind on the down hill and nearly ran down the mountain. We attended the Ranger Presentation that night and learned about the past of the Two Medicine area and the Blackfoot Indians who lived there. Super powerful presentation by a man in character as an Irish priest who had settled with the Natives when he realized that it was impossible and pointless to try and convert them. Truly a moving experience.

We woke early the next day and headed toward Minnesota and a surprise for the girls...and so it will be for you faithful readers as well.

Note--you can click on the pictures to enlarge them (at least it works on our computer)